Maximizing Serger Stitch Quality
March 23, 2009 by David Trumble
Filed under Art Articles
Stitch quality is of paramount importance. Like stitches on a ordinary sewing machine, the proper formation of stitches produces either a beautiful and functional finish, or a mess. Unlike the stitches on a ordinary sewing machine, serger stitches may have up to eight threads.
The serger runs at between 1300 and 1500 stitches per minute with up to eight threads seaming, overlocking, and trims all at once.
Sergers are well known for their professional edge finishes. There are many serger applications, but sergers cannot replace a conventional sewing machine.
In a good stitch, all the threads are where they are suppose to be with tensions properly balanced. Good stitches are void of irregularities, puckers, and loops.
A little common sense and serger care are helpful in overcoming stitch flaws in your serger.
A common source of stitch problems relates to problems with tensions. When you suspect difficulties here, rethread and make sure thread is right. Seat the threads carefully in their tension devices. Finally, adjust one thread at a time until all tensions are balances. Use a different color for each thread to make it easier to track.
Stitches sometimes are just not right. They may appear malformed, irregular, or inconsistent. In any case, they need fixing. To do so, check the thread line, rethread, check tensions, replace needles, and smooth points that snag.
Rethreading is often helpful. Properly balance the tensions and make sure the needles are fresh and appropriate to the fabric. If the edge is inconsistent, try pre-trimming the edge and carefully guide the fabric consistently as you serge. Try adjusting the stitch length to see if that helps. Change threads especially if you are using older thread, highly linty thread, or otherwise lower quality threads. Closely inspect the loopers, needle plate, thread guides, and presser foot for possible burrs or rough spots. Smooth off and try again.
Faulty stitches often result from faulty set up. This can occur when converting from one setting to another, when threading the machine, or when adjusting the tensions. Be sure to follow your users manual precisely when setting up specific stitches and when converting from one stitch set up to another. If the result does not look right, go back and reset the serger. Rethreading will often correct threading issues. Balance tensions by making certain the threads are properly seated in their tension assemblies and adjusted one thread at a time beginning with the loopers.
To prevent thread breakage, it is essential that you eliminate the causes of the breakage. The common causes include needle issues, tension issues, and burrs. Replace needles. Rethread and adjust tension balance. Eliminate burrs.
Often thread break because it is bad thread. Rethread the machine with special attention to detail. Make sure stitch fingers are clear and threads are drawn under the presser foot behind the needles. Double check tensions.
Generally, when the stitch quality is less than acceptable there are some basic things to check every time. These include needles, thread and threading, tensions, loopers, snag causes, settings, and balance. Replacing needles properly, rethreading properly, and adjusting tension balance are the three basic approaches to solve stitch problems.