Essential Serger Threading
Threading your serger can be a hastle. It is so much more complicated than a conventional sewing machine. Instead of having one spool of thread, you might have as many as eight different threads working all at once.
Up to eight cones of thread are mounted behind the serger with a guide rack to lift the thread off the cones. Depending on the number of needles used (1-4), thread threads through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assembly and take up lever to the eye of the needle.
The other threads are drawn up through the thread rack, down through thread guides, through the tension assemblies, and then through either the lower looper or upper looper. Caution: avoid tangling threads.
The serging machine moves the needle down through the fabric and needle plate. The thread from the needles is drawn through the fabric. The lower looper picks up the needle threads and moves to the right. The upper looper picks up the needle thread and the lower looper thread and wraps it around the stitch finger. This process is repeated again and again forming overlocking stitches around the edge of the fabric which trail along behind as the seam moves through the sewing machine.
Unfortunately, when a serging machine is improperly threaded, the stitches are messed up or possibly ruined completely. There are a multitude of techniques to wrongly thread a serging machine, but only one right way to produce quality stitches.
While there are many different types of serging machines, and every one has its own specific way to accommodate the threading process; they are all basically the same.
Here are the key instructions. First, lift the presser foot. To threadinga serging machine begins at the thread spool. Each cone of thread must be properly placed on its spool pin. Bring the thread up and over the thread rack. Pull the thread through each and every thread guide exactly as indicated in your users manual. Caution: threads often snag on uneven spots along the thread line. Double check that the thread moves smoothly off the spool and through the various guides.
Make sure the thread slips between the tension discs. Some sergers will have surface mounted tensions that are easy to tell when they are properly threaded. Others encase the tension in the front cover. Just make sure the thread is properly seated in between the tension discs. Of course, this cannot happen unless the presser foot is up.
Serger tension is a common source of problems. Not only is it essential to properly seat the thread between the two round tension discs, the tension must balance with multiple threads.
Lifting the presser foot before you start thread, releases the pressure on the tension assemblies making it easy to thread them. Make sure each thread is drawn through the tension discs and held firmly in position. If the presser foot is down, the thread (can|may|will travel along the topof the tension discs instead of moving through them properly. The solution is: lift the presser foot lever when you start threading, and keep it up until you thread the needle.
After drawing the thread between the tension discs, continue threading through additional thread guides. Carefully follow the user manuals instructions for proper order. Unless a serger is threaded in proper order, the serger will not work properly. In most cases, thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper, and finally the needles. It must be done correctly every time. No variations.
Threading the needles is much like threading ordinary sewing machine. Take care to thread each thread guide. Thread the take up lever. And thread the needles. Remember, on most sergers it is essential that you thread the needles last. Otherwise, the serger will not produce a stitch.
Test the tension with the presser foot still up by slightly pulling on the end of the thread. You should feel very little friction. Now drop the presser foot and check again. You should sense significant drag now. You can double check each thread the same way just to make sure that the thread is properly seated in their appropriate tension assembly.
If a needle breaks, unthread the entire machine, and rethread in proper order. If you need to change colors or thread spools, cut the thread just above the thread cone. After setting the cone in place, tie the new thread to the original thread using a very small knot. Gently advance the set of threads by slowly serging or by rotating the hand wheel until the tie off has passed beyond the thread finger. Take special care when the knot reaches it guide hole. This technique may be used for all or any one of the threads including needles and loopers.
Rethreading is the first course of action when serger stitches mess up. There are many possible reasons that threads break and stitches jam up. Examine the thread line for anything that might cause the problems, but essentially your first step is to rethread.
We have thus far discussed traditional run of the mill sergers manufactured by most of the sewing machine companies. The things we have discussed here, however, to not apply to the serger technology leader Baby Lock. Baby Lock uses a revolutionary thread management system that eliminates the frustrations over serger threading. Place a quarter inch of looper thread in a small portal and press a lever. The looper is magically threaded. You can thread a Baby Lock in less than sixty seconds. It does not matter what order you thread either.
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